Stretched over two chairs atop the skinny passenger deck of a 10-car ferry as it shuttles across Lago di Como, I look south into the haze of Italy. I’m savoring the best of my favorite country with ...

Pretty, pristine, and perched on a lake, with a striking mountain panorama as a backdrop, Luzern has long been Switzerland’s tourism capital. Since the Romantic era in the 19th century, it’s been a ...