Husband and wife dance instructors, Jennifer, left, and Miguel Aguirre, right, take their moves to the dance floor at Stevens Steak and Seafood House. (Emil Ravelo / For The Times) In the ...

In the working-class city of Commerce, where cars speed past on highways and the Citadel Outlets tower over neighborhoods, there is a steakhouse named Stevens. By day, it’s a classic and charming old ...